Monday, November 1, 2010

Day four - Friday October 22

Departed: Lasbros 7am
Arrived: Saint Chely-d'Aubrac 6:30pm
Total hours: 11
Total kms: 35.8
Accumulated kms: 130.3
Weather: Really windy all day, and sunny enough to give me a slight sunburn despite my hat.

I wanted to get an early start this morning, but I didn't mean to leave this early. I thought it was 5:40am when I got up to do yoga, but it was actually 4:40am. When I left it was dark outside, and I had to use a torch to find the signs for the first half hour.

My morning was great as I finally got hold of Angie on the phone. It's amazing how something so small as a conversation can put such a spring in your step. I was beaming for hours and felt much lighter as I walked.

I came across two more pilgrims on the road today as I walked - Pierre, from Switzerland, and a French girl whose name I can neither pronounce nor remember, who looked almost exactly like my friend Bryony King. Weird. She spoke English well and Pierre spoke enough, and I walked with them for just under an hour then stopped at a restaurant for lunch where I completely blew my budget out of the water. But it felt hard to say no. Besides, my body was craving some cooked vegetables and that's what I got for lunch. I also got an amazing local dish, specific to the region, that was kind of like mashed potato, cheese and something like cayenne pepper all cooked up into a pasty dough. It was so delicious!

The rest of the afternoon was spent walking uphill. Lots and lots of up. It was all out in fields too, and actually grew a bit - not boring, but numbing. After I reached Auberac, my guide said I had 7.3km to get here. Pierre's book said 8km. It ended up taking three hours, and this was for a section that was mainly downhill. The walk to Auberac was either eight or nine kilometres depending on which book you agree with, and all uphill, and that took me a little over an hour and a half. Something's not adding up there!

I'm getting increasingly nervous about finding accommodation. Bryony (as I shall call her) said I was crazy to not be booking in advance. She said that even if the guide book says that places should be open, they're probably not this time of year. Point proven tonight when the place I wanted to stay in was closed. I was lucky, but come the end of the month it's going to be a lot harder to find accommodation that's not a pricey hotel. Bryony also thought I'd be lucky to get over the Pyrenees, she reckons it'll be snowing too much. Then again, Pierre thought otherwise. Oh, and even thought the priest in Le Puy said I should take a different, more northerly route to see an amazing town, Bryony warned me against it and said I'd probably find virtually nothing open. She was such a barrel of laughs, ol' Bryony.










Day three - Thursday October 21

Departed: Le Sauvage 8:30am
Arrived: Lasbros 6:00pm
Total hours: 9.5
Total kms: 33.3
Accumulated kms: 94.5
Weather: Sunny, beautiful and warm

I'm feeling quite sore tonight - not so much in my legs or feet, which are feeling quite fine (well, my feet could use a massage, but I'll do that before bed), but my shoulders are screaming at me. I'm finding it hard to even move my right arm in certain directions. Earlier today I was informed that there were no more supermarkets after Aumont-Aubrac for perhaps a day or two, so I stocked up on some food, which was in addition to the food I bought this morning at Saint Alban after I was overjoyed to actually find a supermarket that was open. Unfortunately this meant a much heavier pack than normal. I'm going to try to repack tomorrow to shift the weight a bit lower, maybe strap the sleeping bag to the outside of the pack or something. I'm planning a pretty hardcore day tomorrow of over 35km with lots of uphill, so I need the pack to be okay.

The start of the walk this morning was incredible - a long walk through stunning forest enshrouded in morning fog, with the hint of snow speckling my jacket every now and then. The path then led downhill for a few hours (bliss!), through some fields that were utterly silent. I fell into a bit of a meditative state and nearly forgot to keep an eye out for the signs.

In Saint Alban I finally got to do most of the things I'd been unsuccessful at so far - post a letter to Angie, bu a phonecard and call her for her birthday (which is today! - although I had to leave a damn message!), speak to mum and dad and buy some groceries. It was a couple of hours later that I met my first pilgrim on the actual trail. Her name was Sabine and she was from Paris, but spoke very good English. I woke her up accidentally as I walked past her, she was just napping on the side of the path. We walked together for an hour or so and she tried to teach me a bunch of French words, only some of which I can actually remember.

When we arrived in Aumont-Aubrac she was a lifesaver, asking in a pharmacy where I could find internet access. Doesn't sound too hard, but the only place was a little computer set up next to the check out at the supermarket! I doubt I would have found that without her help. They let me sit there for about an hour while I furiously busted out some overdue writing for my writing gig.

She stayed there (she, like Dominique last night, also thought I was a madman walking so far each day), and I continued on to Lasbros. I'm in a really nice guesthouse with a host who speaks no English, but we worked out things okay. They must be used to it.

I've been looking at the guide book and getting worried - there seem to be a whole lot of places that close in about ten days, and I might be forced to stay in hotels for three times the price. I don't know how my budget's going to handle that. Not only that, but there seem to be some days where I'll literally need to walk 40km plus even to reach an open hotel. This whole country just seems to shut down during winter. I hope Spain's better, I don't have the guide book for that part yet.

Things I learned today: Originally pilgrims didn't carry their shells to Santiago de Compostella like they do now. Instead, after reaching Santiago, they would travel to the ocean and collect a shell, then carry it home with them to prove they completed the pilgrimage.


 A few days before and a few days after I was here, it was snowing.



 This tree was apparently bent over like this in a huge hurricane a couple of years ago.

Monday, October 25, 2010

Day two - Wednesday October 20

Departed: Saint Privat d'Allier 8:30am
Arrived: Le Sauvage 5:45pm
Total hours: 9 1/4
Total kms: 37.2
Accumulated kms: 61.2
Weather: Cold and raining, then sunny, then alternate all day.

Wow, what a walk today was. It started off really well as I had breakfast with the three pilgrims, one of whom couldn't speak English and two of whom could, but refused to.

Crowded House have the song Four Seasons In One Day - the clouds in France just don't have all day for this, they like to rotate it hourly, and that's just when they're feeling lazy.

For some reason I thought my planned walk was about 34km today, but realised it was nearly 38 in the afternoon. I nearly stopped in Saugue, but once again I arrived when everything was closed. Damn Europeans and their bloody siestas. I missed the post office and the supermarket, which I only discovered after walking 500m down a steep hill (yes, I had to walk back up again).

By the time I arrived in the gite tonight I was nearly delirious. My feet were throbbing and my shoulders had locked up, and I was talking to myself in a less than sane manner. Keep in mind this is just day two. When I arrived, none of the four people in the "office" (a large stone room that was dark and lit/warmed by a fire only) spoke English, and it was very confusing for my exhausted mind to deal with. They didn't seem too impressed with me, but tried to help as much as they could. They even sold me some soup and pasta for dinner and eggs for breakfast as I didn't have any food (thanks to the closed supermarket).

Tonight's the first night I've had to share a room, and it's with Dominique, a lovely French guy who can't speak English. I just had a nice dinner with him and a French girl called Alice who can speak English, has been to Australia and is training to be a yoga teacher, go figure. I told her about Jasper's and she's promised to come visit some day.

Some things I was thinking about today:
1. Is it sacrilege to yell out "goddammit" on a holy pilgrimmage? If so, I blasphemed a few times today.
2. I passed some cows at high altitute and could see steam coming from their ,ouths as they breathed. I estimate that a cow breathes in and out once every two seconds.
3. I thought about how a serial killer could havea field day on the Camino Trail. He could walk it as a pilgrim, which would largely place him above suspicion, then kill lone hikers when they were out in the middle of nowhere. It's not like anyone would likely even notice for weeks or perhaps months. I repeat - this is only day two.
4. I thought how much I'd like to go see Paranormal Activity 2 at the cinema, but unless I see it in French I don't think that's gonna happen.




This is a cool ruins site.

This was taken up near the top of the ruins.

This was taken from inside the ruins.


This is a town called Monistrol-d'Allier (and the ones below too).



This is where people start to get really tired.

Just a weird looking statue.




Day One - Tuesday October 19

Departed: Le Puy-en-Velay 9:45am
Arrived: Saint-Privat d'Allier 2:45pm
Total hours: 5
Total kms: 24
Weather: Very cold and overcast

Not too bad for a first day's effort. I left late, and was walking quite quickly due to stupidly not buying any food or water before I left, then finding out the little towns are practically abandoned during the off season (which seems to start officially on October 15 - the day I left Australia).

Before I left, I went to Catholic Mass in the Cathedral. Partly because the priest invited me, partly because I thought it would be fun to start that way considering the religious overtones of the walk, partly because he assured me it would be short.

It was a bit weird. The Cathedral was beautiful, of course. Up the front was a huge display that looked like it would have been at home in the chamber of a Disneyland ride. A huge circle of hanging ornate urns, golden angels in worshipful poses, and a huge Black Virgin, with the crowned head of Jesus punching out of her stomach like he was auditioning for the lead role in Aliens 4 - Mass Destruction. As I was trying to process this, a bell rang loudly and a squat priest walked out, his countenance so serious I nearly laughed. Fortunately I didn't, that probably would have highly offended the other people there, who all knew when to kneel, stand and sit (there was a lot of that), who all knew what words to say and sing and when to say or sing them, and who generally all looked as serious as the priest.

There's a lot of singing in a Catholic Mass. Every five minutes somebody's singing again. It does sound pretty amazing in the cathedral, what with the natural amplification and reverb. Even the priest, whose neck was lost in the folds of his robe, and whose mouth was lost in the folds of his neck, sounded good.

At the end the priest called together myself and two girls, also pilgrims. He asked where we were from (fortunately Alfred the German was with me and told me this - in German), then we all had to sing a song in French and he gave us each a little plastic brooch with a photo of the Virgin Mary statue on it. I havn't seen the girls again; either they stayed longer, walked faster or just went home after they got their plastic brooch.

After this, my French host Guy took me out to show me the path. This was fun because he understood almost nothing I said, and I understood almost nothing he said. We had a good laugh when we taught each other the words for left, right and straight ahead. He did somehow manage to teach me the very important signage of the Road To Santiago - stripes to show the right way and crosses to warn of the wrong. Simple but easy to miss if you're not looking for them.

The first hour or so was all uphill, but it led me out of town quickly which was great. The rest of the day was spent walking along a variety of roads - gravel, grass, stone, mud, tarred, etc, mainly through country and woods but sometimes through small towns. These were almost entirely desolate except for dogs. I got the impression some medieval wizard had put a curse on the townsfolk and converted them all to canines. Dogs sat in yards, walked down the street, hung out in front of closed bars. Most of them ignored me, merely glancing at me then going back about their business, like people do.

I finally arrived in the town where I am now, starving and thirsting, and found all the shops closed until 4pm. And I thought siestas were only in Spain! I know for tomorrow though, and have already bought fruit, water and chocolate for the walk.

I'm in a room that should house six pilgrims, but I'm the only one - I guess there are some perks to walking in the off season. There are three other pilgrims here - an elderly couple and a younger girl, but the manager put them in other rooms (I'm not sure if that was for their sake or mine). I finally did some washing in the sink (yes, I'm even wearing my undies inside out right now) and as I'm on ly own I've draped them all out to dry over the not-very-warm heater. In fact, if they're dry by tomorrow; including my "quick-drying" towel, I'll be surprised.

The view of Le Puy-en-Velay as I left.

That says 1698km to go. This was about an hour or two into the walk.






This little sign means turn right.

That's snow on the grass!




Coming into Saint Privat d'Allier.

Driving on the wrong side of the road - Monday October 18

Today was the day I drove in Europe for the first time. I had requested an automatic but in Europe they're as rare as koalas. It's weird driving with the pedals in the right place, but the gear stick and your entire body in the wrong place.

My first driving lesson was in the middle of a busy city, in peak hour, on a day when all public transport was on strike. Somehow, somehow, I didn't have an accident. In fact, despite my body locking up faster than an all girl school before a visit by The Butterfly Effect, I did pretty well and picked it up quite quickly.

The drive took about eight hours - much longer than it should have, but the first two hours was city gridlock. Throughout the day it was very dark and gloomy, as if every time had taken the day off and left 5pm in charge. At 5pm he threatened 8pm with a knuckle sandwich if she didn't do a shift, and she acquiesed in just as gloomy a mood. I had to drive through some pretty thick fog to get in too - Sydney fog is like having cellophane held in front of your eyes, French fog is like being put in a hessian sack and beaten.

I arrived just before the Hertz office closed (phew!), and went off in search of the Pilgrim Office. This proved quite difficult. It was hidden in the labyrinthine corridors beneath the Notre Dame Cathedral, and those I asked directions of could barely speak enough English to figure out what I was looking for. Man, I really should have learned French before I came here. I'm not finding anyone being rude - they all seem to genuinely want to help but just can't understand me.

I finally found it with the help of a Cathedral priest who spoke English. He dropped me off and thankfully acted as translator between myself and the managers for a bit first.

There we were - four people trying to understand each other. A Frenchman who spoke no English or German, a German who spoke no English or French, an Australian who spoke no French and only a tiny bit of German, and another German who spoke a little French and less English. Unfortunately for her, she found herself translating for everyone. We managed somehow and had a great night. We all cooked dinner together and then played Rummy, two things that required very little understanding of conversation.


From left to right this is Alfred (German), Guy (French) and Rita (German).

The trip to Le Puy - Sunday October 17

The plan was to catch a train to Le Puy-en-Velay to begin the walk.

That was the plan.

I got the train to Gare de Lyon without any problems, but then found out that the only long distance train going to Le Puy was full. I was told to come back tomorrow and, dejected, I went and found a cheap(ish) motel. After a while of moping about I felt a strong urge to go back and ask someone else. I did this and found out that, due to the massive strikes in Paris at the moment, no more trains wpuld be going to Le Puy until at least the end of the week. I decided to hire a car instead.

Europcar was first, they were out of cars. Hertz was next (and I think last), and here I was very lucky. The girl at the counter said that she couldn't help me, so she called Head Office and got me to speak to them. Because my French is non-existent and her English was not very good, she thought I wanted to pick up a car in Le Puy, instead of driving it to Le Puy. If she had have known that she would have told me they had no more cars. Instead, I straightened this out with Head Office, who didn't seem to know about the lack of cars, and they booked one in for me for the following morning.

As I hung up, I heard another girl explaining (in English) to someone that all cars were booked out. I waited until she was finished and asked about my car. She checked the computer, then said, "Wow, you're lucky. We don't have any cars left - but since Head Office have booked you in, we'll just have to find one."

I spent the rest of the afternoon in the hotel feeling miserable. I had come here to escape the stress and lack of alone time, and instead was in a very crowded city that I couldn't seem to get out of, and where any kind of communication bordered on impossible. The last two days have really highlighted just how much importance I place on needing to be understood, and just how much I take it for granted.

Sunday, October 17, 2010

Gay Paris

It's strange but even though I've spent somewhere in the vicinity of 26 hours on planes and in airports since yesterday morning, and despite the fact that I spent the rest of the time until this point surrounded by people whose language I can't understand for the life of me, I still don't think the whole concept of what I'm doing has actually sunk in yet.

The flights were pretty non-eventful. The jar of Vegemite I had in my bag as a requested present for my Parisian hosts was confiscated first thing by a Qantas girl. She seemed incredulous that somebody would dare, or simply dream, to bring something like that on board with them. I had nothing else confiscated then, or in the second Qantas check, or in the check in Singapore, but then in London on the final plane switch, they took my expensive bed bug repellent because there was an extra 25ml than allowed in the bottle: It was probably for the best - spending the other flights knowing I had gotten away with this gross breach of international security had got me thinking, and if it hadn't been confiscated, I would have come up with a plan so heinous and infernal those 45 minutes between London and Paris would have gone down in the history books.

But I have enjoyed my day in Paris. My host, Patrick, handed me a helmet, leather jacket and pair of gloves when we got home from the airport, and offered to take me on his infamous motorcycle tour of Paris.

We alternated between short tourist stops where I sometimes remembered that I had a camera with me, and crazed, high-speed races mere inches between buses, cars and other motorcycles. I couldn't help recalling the now broken promise to my travel insurer that I would not be on a motorcycle, and I managed to break that one in less than 24 hours of my trip.

It did give me a chance to observe the rules of Parisian traffic, however. Rule One is that you drive in your lane on the right-hand side of the road. Rule Two states that if it's too hard to stay in your lane, don't worry about it and drive in whatever lane (or number of lanes at any one time) that you feel like. Rule three is that if you can't easily stay on your side of the road due to slow cars, too many cars, or not enough lanes for your liking, don't worry about it and feel free to drive on the wrong side of the road so long as there's nothing coming. (This was clearly amended some time in the late 1990s to add, "and if you really think it will be fun to zip between a bus, two cars and two motorcycles [none of whom are staying in any kind of lane at all, pursuant to Rule Two] when they're on the wrong side of the road, nearly upon you, and everyone's doing fifty over the speed limit in a pedestrian zone where traffic technically shouldn't even be anyway, then we're behind you all the way.") I was pretending I was in some movie, probably as someone like Matt Damon in the Bourne series, getting chased by cops. The real cops don't seem to do anything much actually; it's as if they acknowledge the traffic is much larger, stronger and way crazier than they are, and their solution to it is to close their eyes and pretend they can't see it and that, using the same logic as Douglas Adams's Ravenous Bugblatter Beast, simply deny there even is any traffic.

Anyway, here are some really boring touristy photos. Some are blurry because I took them wearing motorcycle gloves and a full face helmet from the back of a running and impatient motorcycle. Others are that way because I'm really not a very good photographer.

This is a photo of Paris from the highest point. Apparently the building in the background on the far right was the first - and only - really tall office building to have been allowed to be built so high.


This is a photo of the Montmarte Cathedral from the outside. You should have seen the inside. Even with a couple of hundred thousand tourists trying to meander their way through the cathedral, there were those who were just there to pray. I saw one woman throw herself at the velvet rope cordening off a shining, polished metal statue of the Virgin Mary and start weeping.


This is where Opera happens. Note bus, motorcycle and herd of cars just waiting for their moment to leap onto the wrong side of the road and make the pedestrians run for the their lives.

Um, this is one of the gates, can't recall which one. They all kinda look the same to me anyway.

And no Parisian photo journal would be complete without a photo of the Eiffel Tower. It looks smaller in real life.

Okay that's it for me, I've already (quite literally, might I say) fallen asleep about five times while typing this up. Tomorrow - I try to get a train or bus or convince Patrick's cats to saddle up for Le Puy because I am aching to get started on the walk.

Friday, October 15, 2010

The long walk

I'm slack on the blog writing, aren't I? Well, I'm going to give it another go, this time to document a walk I'm taking from Le Puy in France to Finisterre in Spain. It's known as the Camino Trail, or the Road to Santiago, or the Way of St James, or an insane bloody thing to be doing, depending on who you talk to.

My walk is starting in Le Puy, which is around 4 hours train south east of Paris. Right at the moment there are public transport strikes all over the place, so I'm either going to be starting a little later than expected, or walking a little earlier than expected, or hitch hiking for the first time in my life. From Le Puy I walk roughly south west for around 800km until I reach a town called St Jean Pied de Port, which is the most common starting point for this long pilgrimage, then a more westerly direction for just under 800km more to get to Santiago de Compostela, the official finishing point. I'll then, providing my legs are still holding me up, walk the extra three or four days to Finisterre on the coast, which was once considered to be the edge of the world. I can't go all that way and not go to the edge of the world, right?

After that it'll be a hopscotch across to Barcelona to see a friend and fly out, and a quick detour through Frankfurt so I can spend my layover hours seeing just how much German I've learnt. I find it funny that I've been learning German for a little while, then decide to go to France and Spain - two languages I can barely even say hello in. Fortunately I have phrase books with me and a good sense of humour that may see me through.

I'm hoping to keep this blog fairly regularly, partly because it will be a good way to keep track of what I'm doing, partly because my friend Kate McAwesome is going to Thailand and some other places and promised to keep one if I did. I like her blogs, so this will be the only way for me to read what she's up to as well.

I haven't ever posted a photo in here, nor have I ever used my sister-in-law's camera, so here's an experiment to see if it works. I present to you, Dear Reader, the only bag I'm taking on this three month journey overseas:

Well, that seemed to work okay. Good, this means I should be able to post photos on my travels then, available computers and internet connections pending.

I head to the airport in a couple of hours, and just need to figure out how to fit one extra little bag of kindle/iPod/journal goodness into this very tight pack. Hmm, it seems that it doesn't fit very nicely. Can you believe that the bag (sans little bag with kindle et al) only weighs just under 7kg? This means that unless I get a jerk at the check in, I'll only have carry on luggage - whoo hoo!

Okay, time to finish off the chocolate Matt & Tab gave me for the flight, then I'm ready to go. Wish me Buen Camino!

Thursday, July 1, 2010

The writing challenge

Sometimes (by which I mean, most times) I find it difficult to motivate myself to write. It's not that I don't enjoy writing, it's just that it seems to be one of those areas of my life that is smothered by an incomprehensible, suffocating phobia with no fixed dimension or form. It's like being afraid not of the dark, but of an absence of light. Or something.

So.

Living within a community of intelligent and creative folks who usually enjoy nothing more than assisting a casual experimentalist in his fun, I have started getting everyone to give me a list of words or sentences or things that I have to write a short story or poem about. These get left in my pigeonhole in an envelope sometime during the day, and I retrieve and read them about 5pm each day. I then have until dinner (which equates to roughly an hour) to put together some kind of narrative. I don't edit the stories, and upon reading them back, even the ones I like, I invariably discover flaws and typos and holes, but that's okay.

Sometimes this works out reasonably well and I write like a man possessed and don't look up until I smell dinner nearby. Sometimes I sit there writing and deleting and writing and deleting until I'm left with half a sentence, and then I close the computer down and pretend it never happened. However it works, I am greatly enjoying the inspiration and the practicality of writing like this each day, if anything it keeps my mind ticking over.

Here's the first story I wrote (a week or two ago) that I was happy with.

My parameters were:
1. A fishtank
2. A rich snob
3. The interior of the earth

The House Inspection
The doorbell rang and I leapt to my feet. It had to be her, nobody ever used the doorbell except her. My friends would always either knock (usually to the beat of whatever was playing through their headphones) or just walk right in. The door was rarely locked.
No, only Susan Rapperport rang the doorbell, and she probably did so with a gloved finger and a tissue on hand to clean the glove. She was fastidious, tedious and immeasurably odious. She was also my landlord.
I scanned the lounge room and found it satisfactory. Not pristine, but even pristine was never good enough for Slapperport, as I liked to call her (never to her face, naturally). No matter how spotless the room she would walk in and sigh in a way that suggested someone had just broken her heart, usually before she’d even looked at anything. A satisfactory state would at least save me a lecture.
The doorbell rang again and I called out, “Coming!” adding quietly to myself, “A word you probably don’t say very often, you frigid…Hi!” I finished up, opening the door and grinning like I was expecting a strip-o-gram. “Mrs. Rapperport, how lovely to see you again. Twice in one month, I feel very honoured.”
She looked down her nose at me, which I had to admit was a difficult thing for her to refrain from doing. Her aquiline honker reared out from between her eyes like a ship’s hull lurching from port, sharp and gleaming. It almost seemed to be smiling itself, probably trying to balance the fact that the bloodless pursed lips below it never did. Her eyes shrunk back from the head of her nose, burrowing their way down into their sockets as if to escape from the light. Her dyed-red hair was pulled back in a bun so tight I wouldn’t be surprised to see the skin around her cheeks tearing apart.
I offered her a hand in greeting. She pulled her own (gloved, of course) to her chest and pointedly ignored it. “I’m here for the house inspection,” she intoned superfluously, like I had taken leave of my senses and thought she might have shown up for a game of Twister. “May I come in?”
Before I could answer she swept her lilac silk scarf across one shoulder and pushed past me. She was a large woman, Mrs. Rapperport, and her shoulder sent me into the door frame like a football tackle. Wincing, I closed the door and followed her wobbling buttocks down the hall.
Mrs. Rapperport owned many houses in my suburb, and so far as I could gather she bullied every single tenant like this. It would almost have made me feel special to think I was her personal bug bear, but she seemed to thrive on constant inspections and harrowing lectures. I figured it was a class thing – her husband (may he rest in peace, although I harboured a morbid yet unrelenting fantasy that she had him stuffed in the freezer and was slowly disposing of the carcass one burger at a time) had pulled her from white collar servitude after a chance meeting in Darling Harbour, and his untimely death (heart attack on the stock market floor when a typo made him think he’d lost his entire fortune) and generous will left her set for life. Perhaps her constant needling of low-income tenants such as myself was her way of putting her past to bed. Of course, she may just have been the biggest bitch I’ve ever met.
“Gerald, there’s a stain on the ceiling in here,” she called loudly, even though I was right behind her. My name is actually Jerry, and it’s certainly not short for Gerald.
“That’s right Mrs. Rapperport, remember I told you about that last time? It’s got to do with that mould issue I was hoping you might…”
“Why is the carpet darker here?” she interjected. With Slapperport, you were to be seen but not heard. Every question was rhetorical, every conversation a monologue. You were nothing but a faceless audience.
“I, I don’t know,” I spluttered in disbelief. “It’s always been darker there, ever since I moved in.”
She was already in the kitchen though – she could sure as hell move fast for such a big girl.
“What. Is. This?” she growled, and that’s when I knew I was in trouble.
“Oh, that,” I laughed feebly, easing my way around her waist to fit into the small kitchen as well. “That’s, uh, that’s Oscar.”
I’m an animal lover, which doesn’t tend to go down too well in rental properties. There are always clauses about no cats, no dogs, no cause in any way, shape or form for fur or faeces to be left lying around to devalue the house. But so far as I could tell, I had never seen a clause outlawing fish.
The reason Slapperport’s jaw was swinging loosely from its joints, however, was that what I had wasn’t really just a fish. I’ve never been one to fit in with the crowd, and a cute little orange goldfish in a bowl isn’t really my style.
Last week, when I knew I had won the bid on Oscar (eBay is truly a market place to be reckoned with), I installed an eight foot tank into the kitchen. My kitchen’s not actually eight foot, so the tank extends out the door and into the backyard a little way. It’s not ideal, but it’s the only place I could fit the damn thing in the house, and Oscar needs to be kept out of direct light. I don’t really want to go into it here but he’s one of those deep sea things that have teeth bigger than its body and glow. He needs room to breathe, really, and the grass snakes he likes to eat tend to thrash about when I drop them in the water.
“I got him last week, isn’t he something?” I realised I was speaking a little too fast. “I’ve always been very careful with pets around here Mrs. Rapperport, I’m a believer in sticking to the rules, but I couldn’t help but notice there was nothing in the rental agreement about not keeping fish…”
“THAT,” she boomed, shooting a finely-manicured finger at the tank, “is not a FISH. THAT,” she continued directly into my face, possibly the first time she’d ever looked directly at me, “is a MONSTROCITY.”
Oscar glowed and gnashed his teeth a little, but then again, he always did that, so I wasn’t too concerned he’d been offended.
“No really, Mrs. Rapperport, he’s definitely a fish. I can pull out a marine encyclopaedia if you want to…”
She held up a hand as if to cast a curse upon me, and paced alongside the tank. Oscar followed her, his little eyes (well, he didn’t actually have eyes, having evolved in a place with no light, but I liked to think of the little black baubles above the fangs as being eyes. It made him a little easier to hang out with) tracing her every move. She turned her back on the tank to squish herself between it and the back door, and thankfully didn’t hear the thud of the glass as Oscar threw himself against it, fang-first.
This wasn’t so good. I was pretty sure I could talk her around with Oscar, but she’d never been to the backyard before and I hadn’t been entirely honest when I said I believed in sticking to the rules. I could only hope Rex stayed hidden in the ferns.
“I will be taking this up with the Tenancy Tribunal,” she snarled. “But first I want to see what else you’re hiding from me. You’ve probably a dog in your shed.” She turned and walked toward it, the ferns to her right.
I turned back to Oscar, making sure he hadn’t snapped a tooth in his futile attack, when I heard her scream.
Screams can be funny things, they rarely sound like the person they come from. Mrs. Rapperport’s scream was thick and curdled, almost like gargling salt water just as it slips down into your throat, despite your best intentions to keep it out of there. I spun around and there was Rex, one claw on her foot and a big, shit-eating grin on his face. I’m not being crude, he had almost certainly been eating shit.
I should probably let you in on something now, which is that when I say I like animals, I mean I like exotic animals. You would have picked that up from Oscar, but he’s probably one of my more conservative pets. Rex is…well, to be honest I don’t really know what Rex is. I won him in a drunken poker game one night in a friend of a friend’s place out in Prestons. Man, you want to see a creepy suburb, that’s Prestons. I call it “Deprestons”, but like I said, I was drunk. Anyway, Rex looks kinda like a komodo dragon, except a little smaller, and with two heads. He’s also jet black and has these little leathery wings folded up along his back, although I can’t say I’ve ever seen him use them. I suppose he’s probably a dragon of some description, but I also can’t say I’ve ever seen him belch out fire or anything. Usually he just likes sitting in the sun and eating shit. Just like a dog I had when I was a kid.
Mrs. Rapperport screamed again, and I reached down to collect Rex before he got scared and did something I’d regret, like bite her foot off.
“Um, this is awkward,” I began. “You see, I’m pretty sure whatever Rex might be is also not specifically banned on my rental agreement…”
Mrs. Rapperport was beyond reasoning though. She ran toward the shed, tears smudging her no doubt animal-tested make up as she went. This was most definitely not a good move.
“Mrs. Rapperport!” I yelled, “Can’t we talk about this?”
But I was too late. Her pudgy hand connected with the shed door with all the force of a battering ram and the old lock (which I really had been intending on fixing, later this week probably) bust apart like confetti at a parade. For a second I thought her bulk might be stopped by the narrow entrance but after a brief struggle she popped through (and now I think back on it the actual “pop” sound, like a cork, was probably only in my head) and disappeared into the dark.
There was no comical banging and clanging from inside, I keep my shed very clean. So clean, in fact, that there’s actually nothing really in there. Except for the hole.
I dropped Rex down (he wandered off to the kitchen to hiss at Oscar, they still hadn’t really become friends yet) and grabbed the hefty torch I kept on a chain outside the shed. I walked through the open door and shone the light down.
I’ve got to say I’m pretty proud of the hole. My parents used to tell me I was the laziest kid they had (and they should know, they had six), but I really worked hard on that hole. It took me four months of digging, and I spent at least a couple of hours nearly every single day on it. I had to do it by hand too, because you can’t just go boring down to the interior of the Earth with heavy machinery on a rental property, someone’s going to complain and then I’d have Slapperport on my back. Although I guess this is probably a moot point now.
I shone the torch down and let it play out on the large well that burrowed down, past where the light could reach. It was the most powerful torch I could find on the market, and it still didn’t reach all the way down. Didn’t I tell you it was some hole?
I don’t know why I looked, there was no chance I was going to see Slapperport again. I think I was just looking for anything left behind, maybe a gouge mark in the wall or something like that. A horrible image came to me then of the round Slapperport falling perfectly down that round hole like a golf ball into its home. I didn’t think that was very charitable of me, even if she was such a bitch.
Seeing nothing, I edged around the well and opened the large freezer on the back wall. I pulled out a frozen hunk of meat (okay, yes, it was a dog, but I prefer to just think of it as “meat”, it makes it easier to kill them) and threw it down. I’m pretty sure I heard a belching, but I can’t be sure. Coco likes to keep to herself down there.

Thursday, June 17, 2010

On the road again

I absolutely love walking up to the highway at night.

At the moment it's really cold, really overcast and really, really dark. If I switch the torch off and press pause on whatever SlowTV lecture I'm listening to, I could almost believe I was walled up in a tomb somewhere. It's silent, chilly and calm as death. Every so often a low and menacing rumble can be heard, and it's not until you can discern the tiny red flashing lights way up high or the weak reflections of the headlights that you can tell whether it's from a plane or a truck.

Tonight the moon smiled out at me like a Cheshire cat, wide grin and no substance. It shimmered through the cloud, seeming to dance around in the sky, peeking out from behind tree branches. As I climbed the steep hill I could feel its laughter upon my back. Looking out halfway up the hill it was the only visible light, even the resort's luminescence was swallowed up by the thick night. The sparkle from the moon's teeth eerily highlighted some menacing clouds moving in, and I imagined myself treading water in the middle of the ocean, the waters calm and ever so dangerous.

Coming back down those clouds rolled up and into the road like a tidal wave in slow motion. I was patiently surrounded, wrapped up and dumped in an exhilarating tackle and then suddenly, they were all behind me, floating off like a dream upon waking.

Some had stayed behind to finish off the cat, and it was all I could do to refrain from constantly looking back over my shoulder, expecting to see that knowing grin right behind me at every step.

Finally I crossed the bridge and the resort held fast against the dark, lit up like a cruise ship in port. Sometimes I can't think of anything better than living here.