Arrived: Lasbros 6:00pm
Total hours: 9.5
Total kms: 33.3
Accumulated kms: 94.5
Weather: Sunny, beautiful and warm
I'm feeling quite sore tonight - not so much in my legs or feet, which are feeling quite fine (well, my feet could use a massage, but I'll do that before bed), but my shoulders are screaming at me. I'm finding it hard to even move my right arm in certain directions. Earlier today I was informed that there were no more supermarkets after Aumont-Aubrac for perhaps a day or two, so I stocked up on some food, which was in addition to the food I bought this morning at Saint Alban after I was overjoyed to actually find a supermarket that was open. Unfortunately this meant a much heavier pack than normal. I'm going to try to repack tomorrow to shift the weight a bit lower, maybe strap the sleeping bag to the outside of the pack or something. I'm planning a pretty hardcore day tomorrow of over 35km with lots of uphill, so I need the pack to be okay.
The start of the walk this morning was incredible - a long walk through stunning forest enshrouded in morning fog, with the hint of snow speckling my jacket every now and then. The path then led downhill for a few hours (bliss!), through some fields that were utterly silent. I fell into a bit of a meditative state and nearly forgot to keep an eye out for the signs.
In Saint Alban I finally got to do most of the things I'd been unsuccessful at so far - post a letter to Angie, bu a phonecard and call her for her birthday (which is today! - although I had to leave a damn message!), speak to mum and dad and buy some groceries. It was a couple of hours later that I met my first pilgrim on the actual trail. Her name was Sabine and she was from Paris, but spoke very good English. I woke her up accidentally as I walked past her, she was just napping on the side of the path. We walked together for an hour or so and she tried to teach me a bunch of French words, only some of which I can actually remember.
When we arrived in Aumont-Aubrac she was a lifesaver, asking in a pharmacy where I could find internet access. Doesn't sound too hard, but the only place was a little computer set up next to the check out at the supermarket! I doubt I would have found that without her help. They let me sit there for about an hour while I furiously busted out some overdue writing for my writing gig.
She stayed there (she, like Dominique last night, also thought I was a madman walking so far each day), and I continued on to Lasbros. I'm in a really nice guesthouse with a host who speaks no English, but we worked out things okay. They must be used to it.
I've been looking at the guide book and getting worried - there seem to be a whole lot of places that close in about ten days, and I might be forced to stay in hotels for three times the price. I don't know how my budget's going to handle that. Not only that, but there seem to be some days where I'll literally need to walk 40km plus even to reach an open hotel. This whole country just seems to shut down during winter. I hope Spain's better, I don't have the guide book for that part yet.
Things I learned today: Originally pilgrims didn't carry their shells to Santiago de Compostella like they do now. Instead, after reaching Santiago, they would travel to the ocean and collect a shell, then carry it home with them to prove they completed the pilgrimage.
A few days before and a few days after I was here, it was snowing.
This tree was apparently bent over like this in a huge hurricane a couple of years ago.
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