Day twenty seven - Sunday November 14

Departed: Roncesvalles 8am
Arrived: Larrasoaña 2pm
Total hours: 6
Total kms: 27
Accumulated total: 792.3
Weather: Overcast and raining

Last night I had my first experience of eating in a Spanish bar as a pilgrim. The Spanish usually have dinner really late, around 10pm, but as the albergues lock their doors at 10pm most nights, many bars offer a special, discounted pilgrim meal earlier, around 8pm. Unfortunately this is usually much less appetising - the chefs don´t normally arrive until 8pm, so the lunch staff heat up the left over lunch food before they clock off for the day, and that´s the pilgrim meal. Or so I´m told.

Dinner wasn´t too bad I guess, although it was very simple. Vegetable soup and bread, followed by two fried eggs, chips and sliced cheese, followed by a small tub of out of date yogurt. Oh well, beggars can´t be choosers I suppose.

The pilgrims were all hered into the restaurant at 8pm and seated in groups of four. I was with Agnes, another Frenchie called Nicola, who spoke a little English, and a Spaniard called Daniel, who spoke no English. I didn´t realise just how well my Spanish was going until it fell to me to translate between Daniel and the others. I didn´t get all of it, but I had enough Spanish (accompanied with some creative charades) to have a decent conversation. Hilarious!

The walk was beautiful today, even with the rain, through forests most of the way. It´s really cold here right now, much colder than it was in France before I crossed the Pyrenees. Perhaps it will warm up as I get farther away from the mountains.

All day long I was conjugating Spanish verbs as I walked, and surprisingly having fun doing so. I like being here in Spain, it´s feeling good - I´m a little surprised as I thought I would like France more. But then, I´ve never been to either place before, so how the hell would I know?

Tomorrow I´ll be walking all day with a Columbian called Phillipe, who speaks Spanish, English and French. We both want a really long walk so are going together. I hope he can keep up with me!