Monday, November 15, 2010

Day twenty six - Saturday November 13

Departed: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port 7:45am
Arrived: Roncesvalles 2:00pm
Total hours: 6.25
Total kms: 26
Accumulated kms: 765.3
Weather: Sunny and windy as hell

Today was the big day on this walk, the day that strikes fear in the heart of some pilgrims and a crazed look in the eyes of others - the crossing of the Pyrenees.

I left early this morning so as to have enough time, and ended up blitzing it. I´ve always been a good uphill walker - I settle into a rhythm really quickly and can walk for ages - but I didn´t think I´d get through today so quickly. The hills weren´t actually too bad - there were a few super steep sections, but otherwise the incline wasn´t very difficult. The challenge was a wind that blew strongly enough to knock me sideways and backward many times throughout the day. From a certain altitude it just blew and blew without pause, for hours on end. Every now and then I would be sheltered by a larger hill or group of rocks and suddenly everything would become still and quiet, then I´d move a few paces forward and would be almost knocked off my feet.

But it was all worth it for the scenery alone, absolutely stunning. There's just something special about being so high up and able to see for so far around. God complex, me? Nah.

As Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port is the traditional starting point, there are many more people here tonight. Still not loads, but perhaps around 15 or so. I wonder just how busy it will get, especially as I plan to walk some fairly long days and perhaps slowly catch some of the earlier walkers.

My reception at the albergue office and the bar where I'm having dinner was really quite cold and dismissive, I suppose it's the result of a long and tiring season. I'll have to be extra nice to everyone along the way!

I took lots of photos of the mountains, sorry about that.










Another self portrait, on top of the world.




A strange little statue of Jesus up in the middle of the mountains.




The sign reads "765km".

Snow! Yay!


Coming down the mountain.

The first albergue with more than about five beds in the room.

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